Development and evaluation of the effectiveness of protective cosmetics aimed at minimizing structural damage to hair caused by the combined effects of adverse environmental factors

Abstract

The aggressive effects of environmental factors such as ultraviolet radiation and air pollution, combined with thermal styling, lead to progressive structural damage to the hair. This is manifested in the destruction of the protein matrix, loss of moisture, brittleness and deterioration of appearance. The tools available on the market do not always provide comprehensive and scientifically based protection. The purpose of this study was to develop and evaluate the effectiveness of a new protective cosmeceutical agent aimed at minimizing damage to the hair shaft caused by a complex of adverse factors. To achieve this goal, several prototype formulas have been developed and tested based on a synergistic combination of natural and synthetic components, including wheat hydrolysates, antioxidant complexes from berry and microalgae extracts, as well as lipid fractions. The effectiveness was assessed using a set of laboratory methods. The mechanical strength and fragility of the hair were measured on a bursting machine, the level of hydration was assessed after controlled thermal exposure, and the structural changes of the cuticle and the number of microcracks were analyzed using optical microscopy and trichoscopy. Statistical data processing included correlation and multivariate regression analysis. The results of the study confirmed the high effectiveness of the developed formulas. The most successful prototype (C+) demonstrated an increase in the mechanical strength of the hair to 36.78 N/mm2 and a 25.6% reduction in brittleness. After thermal styling, the treated hair retained the hydration level by 75.5%, and the number of microcracks in the structure decreased to 12.4 units, which is statistically significantly (p<0.05) better than the control samples. A high coefficient of inverse correlation (-0.82) was found between the degree of hydration and the amount of damage, and the optimal concentration of active ingredients (1.2-1.8%) was determined, providing maximum protection without weighing down the hair. The conducted research proves that an integrated approach to the creation of cosmeceuticals based on the synergy of active ingredients can effectively protect hair from structural damage. The developed formula ensures the integrity of keratin fibers, maintains the required moisture level and increases resistance to mechanical and thermal stress. The data obtained create a scientific basis for the development of a new generation of highly effective and safe hair care products in the cosmetology and trichology industry.